Hanoi and Halong Bay, Vietnam

We've been big fans of Vietnam since our first visit over fifteen year ago. This time we decided to focus on Hanoi and Halong Bay. A lot changed since our last visit, but we still loved every minute of our trip, including the street food and beers on plastic stools, Train Street, an epic day trip to Ninh Binh, and the incredible two night cruise on Halong Bay. We were especially impressed with the service in Vietnam. Everyone seems to go above and beyond to make sure your trip is enjoyable. The people in Vietnam are just really nice.

Similar to other Southeast Asian cities, the Grab ride share service is very prevalent and affordable. Grab is Southeast Asia's version of Uber. We used it all the time to travel distances that were too far to walk.

Our only negative note is the air quality in Hanoi was much worse than on our previous visits. According our research, it's especially bad during winter which is when we were visiting. Just something to be aware of if you’re sensitive or planning outdoor-heavy days. We could often smell the smog when we were outside in Hanoi.

The Vietnamese currency is the Dong, and there are about 26,000 dong to 1 U.S. dollar.  

Where We Stayed in Hanoi

• O’Gallery Premier Hotel
  Centrally located near Hoàn Kiếm Lake and the Old Quarter. Perfect for walking everywhere, well appointed and updated, and great breakfast and service. 
  Cost: VND 2,066,000 per night (~USD $78.50/night) so very affordable!
  Check out the O’Gallery Premier Hotel here
• Grab ride share from airport to hotel: VND 282,000 (~USD $10.75)

Getting Around & Practical Tips

• Grab is the easiest way to get around Hanoi, and it's very inexpensive. Download the Grab app before you visit.
• For temple and pagoda visits be sure to wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees. Otherwise they will either not let you in, or make you borrow or buy a skirt wrap.
• Laundry is cheap and fast: We got laundry done twice during our visit. It was super easy and there are laundry services everywhere. 
  • World Wash: VND 30,000 per kg (~USD $1.15/kg). You have to drop it off and pick it up yourself, but they have next day or same day service.
  • Hanoi Laundry: 3 kg next-day service for VND 140,000 (~USD $5.35). They will pick up the laundry from your hotel and drop it off the next day.

Exploring Hanoi: Old Quarter, Markets & Temples

• Hanoi Old Quarter: nonstop energy, narrow streets, scooters everywhere. Many shops and restaurants to visit. We had a great time exploring the Old Quarter. Just be sure to pay attention to traffic. There are motorbikes everywhere, even on the sidewalks (and you're often walking on streets and alleys that don't have sidewalks). You have to be brave when crossing streets and just cross with confidence.
• Hoàn Kiếm Lake: a peaceful loop for walking and people-watching. It's especially fun to go for a walk or run around the lake early in the morning (6-8 am). You'll see lots of groups of locals doing group exercises (dancing, stretching walking, etc).
• Ngoc Son Temple: VND 50,000 per person (~USD $1.90). Ngoc Son Temple sits on a small island in Hoan Kiem Lake, connected by the iconic red Huc Bridge. This 18th-century temple is dedicated to General Tran Hung Dao and also has two preserved giant turtles that are native to the lake. The temple grounds are peaceful and photogenic, with traditional architecture, ancient trees, and lake views. 
• Temple of Literature: VND 70,000 per adult (~USD $2.70). Temple of Literature is Vietnam's first national university, dating back to 1070. It includes five courtyards featuring traditional Vietnamese architecture, pavilions, and the famous stone steles mounted on turtle backs that honor doctoral graduates. The complex offers insight into Vietnam's Confucian heritage and scholarly traditions, with beautiful gardens and ponds throughout. 
• Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton): VND 50,000 per person (~USD $1.90). Hoa Lo Prison, nicknamed the "Hanoi Hilton" by American POWs provides a sobering look at Vietnam's history. Originally built by French colonists to imprison Vietnamese revolutionaries, it later held American pilots during the Vietnam War, including Senator John McCain. The museum displays original cells, artifacts, and exhibits covering both periods of its use.
• Dong Xuan Market: Free to explore. Dong Xuan Market is Hanoi's largest covered market. This three-story marketplace is mostly for wholesale and generally for locals, but it's fun to walkthrough. 
• Tran Quoc Pagoda: Free (optional donation). Tran Quoc Pagoda on West Lake is Hanoi's oldest Buddhist temple, dating to the 6th century. Entry is free, though donations are welcome. The pagoda features a striking 15-story stupa and offers tranquil grounds perfect for quiet reflection. 
• Hanoi Flagtower: Free to view. Hanoi Flag Tower stands 33 meters tall and is one of the few structures remaining from the original Hanoi Citadel. While you can view and photograph this iconic landmark for free from outside, climbing to the top requires a ticket (VND 100,000/USD $3.80) as part of the Imperial Citadel complex. 

Hanoi Coffee Culture 

Hanoi's cafés offer unique Vietnamese coffee creations you won't find anywhere else, all at prices that make daily visits completely reasonable.

• Tornado Coffee: Coconut coffee + salt coffee for ~VND 100,000 total (~USD $3.85). Tornado Coffee had the most delicious coffee we tried. Their coconut coffee is a refreshing blend of strong Vietnamese coffee with creamy coconut milk, while the salt coffee has the tiniest hint of salt mixed into whipped rice milk. The café itself has limited seating, but spots turned over quickly during our visit so hang around for a few minutes if you don't see an open seat.
• The Note Coffee: Iced coconut coffee for VND 68,000 each (~USD $2.60).

  

  This multi-story café is completely covered in colorful sticky notes left by visitors from around the world, creating a vibrant, ever-changing décor. Their iced coconut coffee is smooth and refreshing, perfect for Hanoi's warm weather. Each floor offers different seating areas and photo opportunities among the thousands of notes. 
  

• Cafe Giang: egg coffee for VND 40,000 each (~USD $1.55). Cafe Giang is the birthplace of cà phê trứng (egg coffee) from the 1940s. Their original recipe is strong Vietnamese coffee topped with a fluffy, sweetened whipped egg yolk cream. The texture is like coffee tiramisu, rich and velvety. The café itself is tucked down a small alley and maintains its old-world charm with simple furniture and walls covered in family photos. Arrive early to avoid crowds.

Street Food, Beer & Train Street

• Bia Hoi (street beer): VND 10,000 each (~USD $0.40). Bia Hoi was more common during our previous trip to Hanoi when we found it on almost every street corner. This time we had to look around a bit to find a spot, but we were glad we did. This fresh draft beer is brewed daily and served at small sidewalk establishments throughout the Old Quarter. The beer itself is light, refreshing, and low in alcohol (around 3%). The real experience is sitting on those tiny plastic stools, watching motorbikes whiz by, and soaking in the energy of Hanoi street life. 
• PHỞ BÒ ĐƯỜNG TÀU: 2 beef phos + 2 beers for VND 150,000 (~USD $5.75). Located near Train Street (but not actually on Train Street) PHỞ BÒ ĐƯỜNG TÀU translates to "train street beef pho," and at under $6 for two bowls of pho plus beers, it's an incredible value. This spot serves steaming bowls of traditional beef pho with tender slices of beef, fresh herbs, and perfectly cooked rice noodles in a delicious broth. Their "kitchen" is just a few pots and stoves on the sidewalk. 
• Bach Phuong: 2 beef noodle salads + 2 beers for VND 265,000 (~USD $10.15). Bach Phuong has incredible bún bò nam bộ (southern-style beef noodle salad). This refreshing dish features lettuce and rice vermicelli topped with grilled beef, fresh herbs, crushed peanuts, fried shallots, and a little bit of slightly sweet broth at the bottom. 
• CỌ Restaurant: 2 phos, flan, and water for VND 286,000 (~USD $11). CỌ Restaurant gives you a slightly more upscale experience while still being very affordable. The pho here was excellent and the flan, a French colonial legacy, was creamy and slightly sweet. It's the perfect cool, smooth finish after a hot bowl of soup. This place has an extensive menu and is popular.
• Bingxue: Matcha ice cream cone for VND 12,000 (~USD $0.45). Bingxue proves that incredible treats don't need to be expensive. At just $0.45, their matcha ice cream cone delivers rich, authentic matcha flavor in a crispy cone. It's a perfect palate cleanser between meals or a sweet pick-me-up while exploring the Old Quarter. We also had their vanilla cone during one of our many visits for VND 10,000 (~USD $0.40).

Train Street Cafés

Train Street has become one of Hanoi's most unique attractions. It's a narrow residential alley where trains pass just feet (or sometimes inches!) from cafés and homes. If you only make one visit, head to the southern end of the track where the vibe is more chill in comparison to the northern section where it is more commercialized. The cafés in the southern section post the times the trains will come through and the vendors were a bit less pushy than on the northern end of the track.

• Chalo Trainstreet Coffee: Beer + ginger tea for VND 100,000 (~USD $3.85). Located at the southern end of the track, this cafe offers front-row seats to the train action. The cafe owner runs out and clears the tables about a minute before the train comes through because the train gets so close it would knock over the tables. It was quite the adrenaline rush for our first visit! Their ginger tea also deserves special mention. It's warm, fragrant, and perfectly balanced between spicy and sweet. It's the best ginger tea we've ever tasted. 
• Cafe 61 Train Street: Pork noodles, rice cakes, and water for VND 145,000 (~USD $5.55). Located around the middle of the track, this spot has tables set slightly further back from the tracks so you can keep your table if a train comes through.  

Craft Beer Stop

• Tony Vu’s Brewing: Flight of 6 beers for VND 360,000 (~USD $13.67). Tony Vu's Brewing represents Hanoi's growing craft beer movement. You can sample a range of styles from IPAs to stouts, all brewed locally. This is notably more expensive than bia hoi, but you're paying for craft quality, variety, and ambiance. 

Day Trip from Hanoi: Ninh Binh (A Must-Do)

Ninh Binh Day Trip: USD $79 per person (~VND 1,950,000)
View the Ninh Binh tour here

Ninh Binh is often called "Halong Bay on land," and for good reason. Located about two hours south of Hanoi, this UNESCO World Heritage site feels like stepping into another world. If you only have time for one day trip from Hanoi, make it this one. 

What Made This Tour Exceptional:

The small group size (9 people max) made the experience feel personal rather than rushed or chaotic. Our guide was knowledgeable and kept us on schedule without feeling hurried. All entrance fees were included, so no fumbling for cash at each stop. The combination of physical activity (climbing, biking through villages), cultural sites (temples and pagodas), and natural beauty (caves, rivers, karsts) creates perfect variety throughout the day.

The 11-hour day (including drive time) felt perfectly paced. Hotel pickup from the Old Quarter happened between 7:00-7:15am, and after about a 2-hour drive south, we arrived in Ninh Binh ready to explore.

Practical Tips:

• Wear comfortable walking/hiking shoes with good grip for the climbs
• Bring sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses) as there's minimal shade
• They recommended bringing bug spray, but we got lucky and didn't need any
  
• The boat ride is long, so use restrooms before departing
• Bring small bills for tipping your boat rower and buying drinks at lunch
• They give you a bottle of water for the ride, but pack some snacks if you think you might want them
• A small day pack is perfect for carrying essentials while keeping hands free for climbing

We returned to Hanoi by early evening, tired but absolutely blown away by Ninh Binh's beauty. At $79 per person, this was one of the best-value experiences of the entire trip. The landscapes are stunning. If your Hanoi itinerary only allows for one day trip, make it this one.

View the Ninh Binh tour here

Halong Bay: The Ultimate Highlight

In the middle of our trip to Hanoi, we headed to Halong Bay.

• 3-day, 2-night Halong Bay Cruise Cost: USD $617.50 total for 2 people (~VND 15,400,000) View the Hera Grand Luxury Cruise here

This was absolutely worth the splurge with excellent food, kayaking, swimming, cave visits, and waking up surrounded by karsts. If you do one luxury experience in Vietnam, make it this. Most people do a single night cruise, or even a day trip cruise. This is definitely the more affordable and popular option if you don't have much time or money to spare, but the negative side is that you are with a lot of crowds at the shore stops. We opted for the two night cruise which takes passengers deeper into the bay and away from most of the crowds, which made for a better experience and photos.

Why the Hera Grand Luxury Cruise Stood Out:

At around $309 per person for three days and two nights, this cruise represents exceptional value for a luxury experience. The Hera Grand is a boutique vessel with fewer passengers than mega-cruises, creating an intimate, never-crowded atmosphere. From the moment we were greeted with refreshing drinks and cold towels, the service was impeccable and attentive. And the five-course lunch and dinners were exceptional.

The cabin was clean and comfortable with large windows offering constant bay views. But beyond the physical amenities, it was the pacing and variety that made this special. The cruise balanced activities (cave visits, kayaking, swimming, cooking classes) with ample downtime for relaxation. We were never rushed or bored.

The food was high-end restaurant-quality throughout: fresh seafood, beautifully prepared Vietnamese and international dishes, generous portions, and lovely presentation.

The small ship size meant personalized service and the sundeck never felt crowded.

View the Halong Bay cruise here

Final Thoughts

Hanoi is intense, fascinating, chaotic, and delicious, and Halong Bay is the perfect counterbalance of calm and beauty. While air quality is something to keep in mind when planning your days in Hanoi, the culture, food, and experiences more than made up for it.

Planning your own Vietnam adventure? Don’t forget to grab our free packing list and download our free travel safety checklist so you can travel confidently and stay safe along the way.